A Day at Ridge Vineyards: Why This Winery Changed How I Think About California Wine

Winery Visits

A Day at Ridge Vineyards: Why This Winery Changed How I Think About California Wine

Ridge Monte Bello sits 2,600 feet above Silicon Valley and makes some of the most age-worthy wines in America. Here is what a visit is actually like.

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Chuck Hoeffler
••11 min read
A Day at Ridge Vineyards: Why This Winery Changed How I Think About California Wine

A Day at Ridge Vineyards: Why This Winery Changed How I Think About California Wine

I almost didn't go.

Ridge Vineyards is not easy to get to. The Monte Bello property sits at 2,600 feet in the Santa Cruz Mountains, about an hour south of San Francisco, up a winding road that gets narrow enough in places to make you wonder if you've taken a wrong turn. There's no valet, no gift shop selling branded wine glasses, no Instagram-ready infinity pool overlooking the valley.

What there is: one of the most important wineries in American history, making wines that can age for 30 years, poured by people who actually want to talk about what's in your glass.

I went. I'm glad I did.

Ridge Vineyards: A Brief History

If you've heard of Ridge, it's probably because of the 1976 Paris Tasting — the famous blind competition where California wines beat the best of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Ridge's 1971 Monte Bello Cabernet placed fifth overall, which doesn't sound impressive until you realize it was competing against some of the most celebrated wines in the world, and that when the tasting was repeated 30 years later with the same wines, the Monte Bello had aged better than almost everything else in the lineup.

But the history goes deeper than one famous tasting.

The Founding

Ridge was founded in 1962 by a group of Stanford Research Institute scientists — Dave Bennion, Hew Crane, Charlie Rosen, and Howard Ziedler — who bought the Monte Bello property as a weekend retreat and discovered that the old vineyard on the property was producing remarkable fruit. They made their first commercial wine in 1962, and the winery has been operating continuously ever since.

The scientific background of the founders shaped Ridge's philosophy from the beginning. They approached winemaking empirically — asking what the vineyard was capable of, rather than imposing a style on it. That empirical approach, combined with a commitment to minimal intervention, is still the foundation of everything Ridge does.

Paul Draper and the Modern Era

Paul Draper joined Ridge as winemaker in 1969 and spent nearly five decades shaping the winery's identity. Draper is one of the most influential figures in American wine history — not just for the quality of the wines he made, but for the philosophy he articulated: that great wine comes from great vineyards, that the winemaker's job is to get out of the way, and that transparency about what goes into a wine is a fundamental obligation to the consumer.

Ridge was one of the first American wineries to list all additives on the back label. In most vintages, that list is very short: grapes, yeast, sulfur dioxide. That transparency is a statement of confidence in the vineyard.

Draper retired in 2016, and winemaking responsibilities have been shared among a team of long-tenured winemakers. The wines have maintained their extraordinary quality and consistency.

The Ownership Question

In 1986, Ridge was acquired by Otsuka Pharmaceutical, a Japanese company. This raised eyebrows at the time, but the transition has been seamless — Otsuka has been a hands-off owner, allowing Ridge to operate with complete independence. The wines, the philosophy, and the people have remained unchanged.

The Monte Bello Terroir

The Monte Bello vineyard is one of the most unusual in California. At 2,600 feet elevation, it sits above the fog line that blankets the Santa Cruz Mountains most mornings, giving it more sun exposure than lower-elevation sites. The soils are a complex mix of limestone, shale, and clay — unusual for California, where limestone soils are rare.

Why Limestone Matters

Limestone soils are associated with some of the world's greatest wine regions: Burgundy, Champagne, Chablis, the Côte d'Or. The calcium carbonate in limestone affects vine physiology in ways that are still not fully understood, but the results are consistent: wines with more mineral complexity, better natural acidity, and greater aging potential.

At Monte Bello, the limestone gives the Cabernet Sauvignon a distinctive mineral quality — a graphite and chalk note that sets it apart from valley-floor Napa Cabernet. Combined with the elevation (which preserves acidity) and the cool Pacific influence (which extends the growing season), the result is Cabernet that ages differently from anything else in California.

The Old Vines

Some of the Monte Bello vineyard was planted in the 1880s, making it among the oldest continuously producing Cabernet Sauvignon in California. Old vines produce less fruit, but what they produce is more concentrated and complex. The oldest blocks at Monte Bello contribute a depth and complexity to the wine that younger vines simply cannot replicate.

Getting There

I drove up on a Saturday morning in late September, which turned out to be perfect timing — harvest was underway, and the air smelled faintly of fermenting grapes as I pulled into the parking lot. The road up is genuinely beautiful: redwoods give way to chaparral, and then suddenly you're above the fog line and the whole Bay Area is spread out below you.

Practical directions: Take Highway 9 from Saratoga. The last stretch of Monte Bello Road is narrow — go slow, especially on weekends when you may encounter oncoming traffic. The drive takes about 20 minutes from Saratoga.

The tasting room is modest — a converted barn, essentially — with a long wooden bar and a few tables outside on a terrace with views that would be worth the drive even without the wine.

Planning Your Visit

Address: 17100 Monte Bello Road, Cupertino, CA 95014

Hours: Thursday–Monday, 11am–5pm. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.

Reservations: Required for the Estate Tasting. Book at least a week ahead on weekends; earlier during harvest season (September–October). Book at ridgewine.com.

Tasting formats:

  • Estate Tasting (~$40): 5 wines, approximately 90 minutes. This is the standard experience and what I recommend for first-time visitors.
  • Library Tasting (~$75): Includes older vintages of Monte Bello and other estate wines. Worth it if you want to understand how Ridge wines age.
  • Harvest Tasting (September–October only): A special tasting during harvest, sometimes including barrel samples. Book well in advance.

What to bring: A picnic. There are tables on the terrace and the views are spectacular. Ridge doesn't have a restaurant, but they're happy for you to bring food. A charcuterie board and some good cheese is the ideal companion to the wines.

Nearby: The Lytton Springs property in Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, is Ridge's other tasting room and focuses on Zinfandel. If you're making a wine trip, visiting both properties gives you a complete picture of what Ridge does.

The Tasting

I did the Estate Tasting, which runs about $40 and covers five wines. Here's what stood out:

2022 Three Valleys Zinfandel (~$28 retail)

This is Ridge's entry-level Zin, sourced from old-vine vineyards in Sonoma, Contra Costa, and Napa. It's the wine that converted me to California Zinfandel. Bright raspberry and blackberry, a little black pepper, and a freshness that keeps it from feeling heavy. The alcohol is listed at 14.5% — high by European standards, but Ridge manages it so the wine doesn't feel hot or flabby.

Tasting notes: Deep ruby-purple. On the nose: ripe blackberry, raspberry, black pepper, a hint of vanilla. On the palate: full-bodied but fresh, with lively acidity and firm but polished tannins. The pepper and spice carry through to a long, warming finish. Excellent value.

Food pairing: Pizza, pasta with tomato sauce, grilled sausages, anything with tomato or red pepper.

2021 Lytton Springs Zinfandel (~$42 retail)

A step up in complexity. Lytton Springs is a specific vineyard in Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, planted in the 1970s. Old vines produce less fruit, but what they produce is concentrated and complex. This one had dried cherry, a little baking spice, and a savory, almost meaty quality on the finish. It's the kind of wine that makes you want to sit with it for an hour.

Tasting notes: Deep ruby with a garnet rim. On the nose: dried cherry, brambly raspberry, baking spice, a hint of leather. On the palate: full-bodied with ripe, concentrated fruit and firm tannins. The savory, meaty quality on the finish is the signature of old-vine Dry Creek Zinfandel. Long, complex finish.

Food pairing: Grilled lamb, braised short ribs, aged hard cheeses, BBQ.

2020 Geyserville (~$38 retail)

Geyserville is Ridge's other flagship Zinfandel, from a vineyard in Alexander Valley, Sonoma. It's a field blend — mostly Zinfandel, with Carignane, Petite Sirah, and Mataro — which gives it a complexity that single-varietal Zinfandel can't match. The 2020 was bright and spicy, with more red fruit than the Lytton Springs and a slightly lighter body.

Tasting notes: Bright ruby. On the nose: red cherry, raspberry, spice, a hint of dried herbs. On the palate: medium-to-full bodied, with lively acidity and silky tannins. More elegant than the Lytton Springs, with a longer, more complex finish. One of the best values in the Ridge lineup.

2019 Monte Bello (~$175 retail)

This is the one. The flagship. The wine that placed fifth in Paris.

I'll be honest: I wasn't sure I'd be able to appreciate it properly. Monte Bello is a Cabernet-dominant blend that's built to age — the 2019 is still young, still a little tight, still finding itself. But even at this stage, you can feel the structure, the precision, the sense that there's something serious happening in the glass.

Tasting notes: Near-opaque ruby-black. On the nose: dark cassis, graphite, cedar, a hint of dried herbs and chalk. The limestone terroir is unmistakable — there is a mineral quality here that you don't find in valley-floor Cabernet. On the palate: full-bodied and dense, with massive but fine-grained tannins and impeccable acidity. The finish goes on for what feels like a full minute, the fruit slowly giving way to mineral and spice.

Drinking window: 2027–2045. This wine needs time. If you open it now, decant for at least two hours.

Is it worth $175? That's a question only you can answer. What I can tell you is that it tastes like a wine that will be extraordinary in 2035.

The People

This is what I want to emphasize, because it's what I didn't expect: the people pouring the wine were genuinely knowledgeable and genuinely enthusiastic. Not in a scripted, hospitality-training way — in a "I actually care about this stuff and want to talk about it" way.

I spent 20 minutes talking with one of the tasting room staff about the difference between Zinfandel grown in Dry Creek Valley versus Paso Robles, and she knew the subject cold. She'd visited both regions, she had opinions, and she was happy to share them.

That kind of conversation is what makes a winery visit worth the drive.

Ridge's Transparency Philosophy: The Back Label

One of the things that distinguishes Ridge from almost every other winery in California is the back label. Ridge lists every additive used in the winemaking process — not just the required disclosures, but everything. In most vintages, the list is very short: grapes, yeast, sulfur dioxide.

This transparency is a statement of confidence. Ridge is saying: we have nothing to hide. The wine is what it is because of the vineyard, not because of additives or manipulation.

Compare this to the typical California wine label, which tells you almost nothing about how the wine was made. Ridge's approach is unusual, and it is one of the reasons the winery has such a devoted following among serious wine drinkers.

What to Buy

The Three Valleys Zinfandel is the best value in the lineup. It's the wine I recommend to people who are new to Ridge or new to California Zinfandel. Approachable, food-friendly, and genuinely good.

The Lytton Springs is worth the splurge if you're buying one bottle to take home. It's the wine that best represents what Ridge does with Zinfandel — old vines, specific terroir, complexity that develops over time.

The Geyserville is the sleeper pick. Less well-known than Lytton Springs, but often just as good and occasionally better. The field blend gives it a complexity that single-varietal wines can't match.

The Monte Bello is for the cellar. If you buy it, put it away for at least five years. It will reward your patience.

The Verdict

Ridge Monte Bello is not a flashy winery. It doesn't have the manicured grounds of some Napa estates or the Instagram-friendly aesthetic that draws crowds to certain Sonoma producers. What it has is integrity — a clear sense of what it's trying to do and decades of evidence that it can do it.

If you're serious about California wine, this is a pilgrimage worth making.

For more on how Sonoma and Napa compare as regions, see our Sonoma vs Napa Valley guide. And if Ridge's Zinfandel sparked your curiosity about the grape, our field guide to American wine grapes covers Zinfandel and every other major variety in depth. For a contrasting Napa experience, our visit to B Cellars in Oakville shows a very different — and equally compelling — side of the valley.

Explore Topics

#Ridge Vineyards#Santa Cruz Mountains#winery visit#Zinfandel#California wine
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Written by

Chuck Hoeffler

Chuck Hoeffler is the founder and editor of The American Vine. He loves tasting and writing about American wine, with a particular focus on regions and wineries that deserve more attention than they typically receive.

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