Tasting Notes: 2023 Meadowbrook Winery Whole Berry Cabernet Franc

New Jersey does not get the credit it deserves. I know that is a sentence that raises eyebrows, but I mean it specifically about wine — and specifically about Cabernet Franc. The state's combination of clay-loam soils, warm summers, and cool Atlantic-influenced nights turns out to be a genuinely compelling environment for this grape, and Meadowbrook Winery in Hunterdon County is one of the producers making the strongest case for it.

The 2023 Whole Berry Cabernet Franc is the wine I keep coming back to. It is not trying to be Napa. It is not trying to be the Loire. It is doing something distinctly its own — aromatic and precise, with a savory depth that speaks directly to the New Jersey terroir — and it is doing it very well.

Meadowbrook Winery sits in the rolling farmland of Hunterdon County, in the agricultural interior of New Jersey that most people drive past on their way to somewhere else. It is a focused, serious operation — the kind of small estate that makes a tight lineup of wines from estate-grown fruit and does not try to be everything to everyone.

The winery has built its reputation on Cabernet Franc, and it shows. The Whole Berry bottling is their flagship red — made, as the name suggests, with whole-berry fermentation rather than full whole-cluster. This technique preserves the integrity of each berry through fermentation, producing wines with brighter fruit, softer tannins, and a freshness that whole-cluster wines sometimes sacrifice for structure. It is a deliberate choice, and in the 2023 it pays off.

The 2023 growing season in New Jersey was one of the more challenging in recent years — a wet spring pushed bud break later than ideal, and a stretch of humidity in July required careful canopy management to keep disease pressure in check. But the summer recovered well, with consistent warmth through August and a dry, extended September that allowed the Cabernet Franc to hang on the vine and develop full phenolic ripeness without losing acidity.

The result across the state was wines with excellent natural freshness, ripe but focused fruit, and a structural integrity that rewards patience. For Cabernet Franc specifically, the extended hang time in September produced a depth of flavor that the variety does not always achieve in New Jersey's shorter seasons. The 2023 is a vintage worth paying attention to.

Producer: Meadowbrook Winery Wine: Whole Berry Cabernet Franc Vintage: 2023 Varietal: Cabernet Franc Region: Hunterdon County, New Jersey Appellation: Central Delaware Valley AVA Winemaking: Whole-berry fermentation, aged in neutral oak

Deep ruby with a violet rim — more saturated than you might expect from a New Jersey red, and a good sign of the vintage's ripeness. The color is clear and bright, with no browning at the edge. The legs are slow and even, suggesting moderate alcohol and good concentration.

The nose opens with a generous burst of ripe red cherry and fresh blackberry — fruit-forward in the best sense, with a ripeness that feels earned rather than extracted. Underneath, there is the classic Cabernet Franc aromatic signature: dried violet, a thread of green herb, and a faint pencil-shaving quality that adds complexity without tipping into vegetal territory.

Give it ten minutes in the glass and something interesting happens. A savory, almost meaty note emerges — dried herbs, a hint of iron, a whisper of dark earth — that grounds the fruit and gives the wine real character. There is also a subtle spice note, something between black pepper and dried thyme, that lingers pleasantly in the background.

This is a nose that rewards patience. Do not rush it.

Medium-plus body, with a richness that is immediately appealing. The whole-berry fermentation shows clearly here — the tannins are soft and rounded, with a plush, almost velvety texture that makes the wine easy to drink but not simple. The acidity is bright and well-integrated, providing structure without sharpness.

The fruit on the palate is generous: ripe cherry, dark plum, a touch of blackcurrant. The mid-palate has a savory, earthy quality — dried herbs, a hint of leather, something faintly mineral — that adds depth and keeps the wine from feeling one-dimensional. The oak is well-handled, present in the structure but not in the flavor; you sense it as a framework rather than tasting it as vanilla or toast.

The finish is long and satisfying, with a lingering fruit note and a faint herbal persistence that ties the whole thing together. There is a warmth to the finish — not heat, but a genuine sense of completeness — that makes you want another sip.

The Whole Berry Cab Franc's combination of ripe fruit, soft tannins, and bright acidity makes it one of the most versatile reds I have poured this year. It works across a wide range of dishes:

• Roast duck or duck confit — the classic Cab Franc pairing. The wine's acidity cuts through the fat; the herbal notes echo the richness of the duck beautifully.
• Grilled lamb chops with rosemary — the savory, earthy mid-palate is a natural match for lamb, and the herb notes in the wine mirror the rosemary on the plate.
• Mushroom and lentil ragù — the earthy, mineral quality of the wine plays off the umami depth of mushrooms in a way that is genuinely satisfying. A great option for a vegetarian pairing.
• Aged cheddar or Manchego — the soft tannins and bright acidity handle the fat and salt of aged cheese with ease. A simple, excellent pairing.
• Pork tenderloin with herbs — the wine's fruit and savory character complement pork beautifully, especially with a simple herb preparation that echoes the wine's aromatic profile.

Avoid very heavy, richly sauced dishes — the wine has real presence, but it is built for elegance rather than power, and it shows best alongside food that respects that.

vs. Unionville Vineyards Pheasant Hill Cabernet Franc (~$28, Hunterdon County): Unionville's Pheasant Hill is the benchmark for accessible New Jersey Cab Franc — fruit-forward, well-made, and widely available. The Meadowbrook Whole Berry has more savory depth and textural complexity. A step up in seriousness, and priced accordingly.

vs. Tomasello Winery Cabernet Franc (~$22, Atlantic County): Tomasello is one of New Jersey's most established producers, and their Cab Franc is reliable and food-friendly. The Meadowbrook is more structured and more interesting, with a complexity that Tomasello's volume production cannot quite match.

vs. Forge Cellars Railroad Cabernet Franc (~$40, Finger Lakes, NY): The Forge Cellars is the gold standard for East Coast Cab Franc — more aromatic, more mineral, more age-worthy. The Meadowbrook Whole Berry is warmer and richer, with more immediate fruit appeal. Two different styles, both excellent. The Meadowbrook is the better choice for a weeknight dinner; the Forge Cellars is the bottle you open for a special occasion.

vs. Loire Valley Bourgueil (~$20–$30): The honest comparison for any East Coast Cab Franc. The Meadowbrook holds up well — it has the aromatic complexity and food-friendliness of a good Bourgueil, with a ripeness that reflects the warmer New Jersey climate. At a comparable price point, it is a genuinely competitive bottle.

The 2023 Whole Berry is approachable now and genuinely enjoyable with food. The soft tannins and ripe fruit make it easy to drink young, but there is enough structure here to reward a few years of patience:

• Now–2026: Ripe, generous, and food-friendly. Decant for 20–30 minutes to open up the nose and let the fruit settle.
• 2027–2030: The tannins will integrate further, the fruit will develop more complexity, and the savory and earthy notes will come forward. This is when the wine will be at its most interesting.
• 2031–2033: The wine will begin to show secondary character — dried fruit, leather, forest floor — while retaining its freshness. Well-stored bottles will still be compelling.

Meadowbrook Winery wines are available directly from the winery in Hunterdon County, New Jersey, and through select New Jersey wine retailers. Production is small and distribution is limited, so the winery is your best bet. If you are in the area, a visit is worth the trip — this is exactly the kind of small, serious estate that makes New Jersey wine worth exploring.

The 2023 Meadowbrook Winery Whole Berry Cabernet Franc is the best argument I have found for taking New Jersey Cabernet Franc seriously. It is ripe, aromatic, and genuinely complex — a wine with real character that rewards attention without demanding it. The whole-berry winemaking gives it a textural softness that makes it immediately appealing, while the savory depth and bright acidity keep it interesting through the last sip.

If you have been overlooking New Jersey as a wine state, this is the bottle that might change your mind.

Score: 91. Drink now through 2030.

For more on New Jersey wine and the producers making the most compelling bottles in the state, our New Jersey Wine Guide covers the AVAs, the regions, and the wineries worth seeking out. And if you want to understand why Cabernet Franc is one of the most underrated grapes in American wine, our deep dive on Cabernet Franc in American Wine is a good place to start. We also put together a Complete New Jersey Winery Directory — every winery in the state, organized by county.