There are a handful of wineries in America where the story behind the bottle is as compelling as what's inside it. Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery on Keuka Lake is one of them. This is the place where a Ukrainian immigrant with a PhD in viticulture proved, against the skepticism of the entire American wine establishment, that vinifera grapes — the classic European varieties like Riesling, Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer — could not only survive but thrive in the brutal winters of upstate New York.

I made the drive up to Hammondsport on the kind of day when the Finger Lakes region looks like a painting. The hills were turning gold and amber, the lake was a deep steel blue, and the vines were heavy with the last of the harvest. By the time I pulled into the winery's parking lot, I already knew this was going to be a special visit.

Before we get into the wines, you need to understand who Konstantin Frank was — because without that context, you're just drinking good Riesling. With it, you're drinking history.

Konstantin Frank was born in 1899 in Ukraine, where he earned a doctorate in plant science and spent decades studying cold-climate viticulture. He survived two world wars, the German occupation, and the Soviet regime before emigrating to the United States in 1951 at the age of 52, arriving with his family and almost nothing else.

He ended up in Geneva, New York, working at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station — washing dishes, because his credentials weren't recognized and his English was limited. But he kept pushing. He kept telling anyone who would listen that vinifera grapes could grow in New York. The conventional wisdom at the time was that the winters were simply too cold — that only hardy native American varieties like Concord and Niagara could survive. Frank disagreed, and he had the science to back it up.

He eventually caught the ear of Charles Fournier, the winemaker at Gold Seal Vineyards and a former Champagne house veteran. Fournier gave Frank a chance. Together, they identified cold-hardy rootstocks — specifically, rootstocks from Quebec monasteries that had been growing in climates far colder than the Finger Lakes — and grafted vinifera onto them. The experiment worked. In 1962, Frank founded his own winery on Keuka Lake, and the rest is American wine history.

Today the winery is run by his grandson Fredric Frank, and the family's commitment to vinifera excellence in the Finger Lakes has never wavered. They farm about 70 acres on Keuka Lake and source from additional estate and partner vineyards throughout the region.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery is located at 9749 Middle Road in Hammondsport, New York, right on the western shore of Keuka Lake. Hammondsport is a small, charming village at the southern tip of the lake — worth an hour of wandering on its own.

From New York City: It's about a five-hour drive, heading up the I-87 and cutting west through the Southern Tier. Not a day trip, but very doable as a weekend getaway.

From Rochester: About 90 minutes south on Route 390 and then Route 17. This is the most convenient gateway city if you're flying in.

From Buffalo: About two hours east. Pair it with a stop in Letchworth State Park on the way.

The winery is open year-round, which is one of the things I appreciate about it. The Finger Lakes isn't just a summer destination — fall harvest season (September through November) is arguably the best time to visit, and the winter tasting room has a cozy, intimate quality that the summer crowds don't allow for.

Hours: Monday through Saturday 9am–5pm, Sunday 10am–5pm. Hours can vary seasonally, so check their website before you go.

Reservations: Walk-ins are welcome for the standard tasting, but if you want one of the seated experiences or a private tour, book ahead. Fall weekends fill up fast.

The tasting room sits right at the edge of the vineyard, with a long wall of windows looking out over Keuka Lake. On a clear day, the view is genuinely stunning — the lake stretches north between forested hills, and the estate vines run right down to the water's edge. It's the kind of setting that makes you want to slow down.

The room itself is elegant without being stuffy. There's a long bar where you can do a standard flight, plus several tables for seated tastings. The staff are knowledgeable and clearly passionate about the wines — I had a long conversation with my pourer about the differences between Keuka Lake and Seneca Lake terroir, and she held her own on every point.

Tasting Options:

• Classic Tasting: A flight of five wines, typically including the flagship Rieslings, a white, and one or two reds. This is the right starting point for first-time visitors.
• Reserve Tasting: A step up, featuring the library and limited-production wines. Worth the extra cost if you're a serious Riesling fan.
• Seated Tasting with Food Pairing: Available on weekends, this pairs wines with small bites from local producers. Excellent.
• Winery Tour: A guided walk through the cellar and vineyards, usually offered on weekend mornings. Book in advance.

I went with the Reserve Tasting, and I'm glad I did.

This is the wine that made Dr. Frank famous, and it still earns every bit of its reputation. The Dry Riesling is sourced from estate vineyards on Keuka Lake, and it shows the classic Finger Lakes profile: high natural acidity, precise stone fruit, and a mineral backbone that reminds you of the shale and limestone soils beneath the vines.

On the nose: white peach, green apple, lemon zest, and a faint petrol note that signals real age-worthiness. On the palate: bone dry, with a laser-focused acidity that makes your mouth water. The finish is long and clean, with a saline, almost oyster-shell quality that I find irresistible.

At around $20 a bottle, this is one of the great values in American wine. I bought three bottles.

Pairing: Grilled trout, oysters on the half shell, or a simple roast chicken. The acidity cuts through fat beautifully.

If you're bringing someone who claims they don't like Riesling, start here. The Semi-Dry has about 15 grams of residual sugar, but the acidity is so high that it doesn't read as sweet — it reads as lush and fruit-forward.

Apricot, mandarin orange, honeysuckle, and a touch of ginger on the nose. The palate is rounder and more generous than the Dry, with that same mineral thread running underneath. It's a crowd-pleaser in the best sense — approachable without being dumbed down.

Pairing: Thai food, spicy Indian dishes, pork tenderloin with fruit chutney. The slight sweetness is a natural foil for heat and spice.

This was the wine of the visit for me. Gewürztraminer is notoriously difficult to grow — it's thin-skinned, prone to disease, and needs a very specific climate to express its full aromatic potential. The Finger Lakes, with its cool nights and long growing season, turns out to be nearly perfect for it.

The Dr. Frank Gewürztraminer is intensely aromatic in a way that stops you mid-conversation. Rose petals, lychee, ginger, and a faint smokiness that I've only encountered in the best Alsatian examples. On the palate, it's off-dry (about 10 grams of residual sugar), with a rich, almost oily texture and a long, spiced finish.

I've had Gewürztraminer from Alsace, from Germany, from New Zealand. This one belongs in that conversation.

Pairing: Foie gras, Alsatian choucroute, or — my personal favorite — a simple cheese plate with aged Gruyère and honeycomb.

Here's where things get interesting. Rkatsiteli (pronounced rah-kaht-see-TEH-lee) is an ancient Georgian grape variety that Dr. Frank planted in the 1960s, making this one of the oldest plantings of the variety in the Western Hemisphere. It's a white grape with thick skin and high acidity, and it produces a wine unlike anything else in the Finger Lakes.

The Dr. Frank Rkatsiteli is golden in color, with aromas of dried apricot, quince, chamomile, and a distinctive herbal, almost tea-like quality. On the palate, it's dry and grippy, with a tannic structure unusual for a white wine. It's not for everyone — but if you're the kind of wine drinker who gets excited about obscure varieties, this is a must-try.

The winery also makes an amber/skin-contact version called "Rkatsiteli Amber" that's worth seeking out if you're into natural wine styles.

Pairing: Georgian food (obviously), roasted lamb, or strong cheeses like aged cheddar or manchego.

I'll be honest: I came to Dr. Frank for the whites. The Finger Lakes is Riesling country, and I wasn't expecting much from the reds. The Cabernet Franc changed my mind.

Cabernet Franc is the red grape best suited to the Finger Lakes climate — it ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, and it thrives in the cool, continental conditions around the lakes. The Dr. Frank version is a serious wine: medium-bodied, with aromas of dark cherry, dried herbs, graphite, and a distinctive green pepper note that's characteristic of the variety.

On the palate, the tannins are firm but not aggressive, and the acidity is bright and food-friendly. This is a wine that rewards patience — the 2022 vintage I tasted was good now but will be better in three to five years.

Pairing: Roast duck, lamb chops, or a mushroom risotto. The herbal quality of the wine echoes earthy, savory dishes beautifully.

The Célèbre is Dr. Frank's top red wine, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate's best blocks. It's only made in exceptional vintages, and it's the wine that makes the strongest case for Finger Lakes reds as a serious category.

The 2019 vintage I tasted was impressive: dark fruit, cedar, tobacco, and a complexity that I associate with wines costing twice as much. The tannins are polished, the finish is long, and there's a freshness to the acidity that keeps the wine from feeling heavy.

This is a collector's wine. If you see it on the shelf, buy it.

I didn't expect to end the tasting with a sparkling wine, but the staff insisted, and I'm glad they did. The Dr. Frank Blanc de Blancs is made in the traditional method from Chardonnay, and it's a genuinely excellent sparkling wine — fine bubbles, toasty brioche notes, green apple, and a clean, refreshing finish.

The Finger Lakes, with its cool climate and high-acid fruit, is actually well-suited to sparkling wine production, and Dr. Frank has been making it for decades. This is a wine that deserves more attention than it gets.

Pairing: Oysters, caviar, or just as an aperitif on a warm afternoon overlooking the lake.

One of the things that makes Dr. Frank's wines distinctive is the specific terroir of Keuka Lake. While Seneca Lake (the largest and deepest of the Finger Lakes) gets most of the attention, Keuka has its own character that's worth understanding.

The Y-Shape: Keuka is the only Y-shaped lake in the Finger Lakes, which means it has more shoreline relative to its size than the other lakes. This creates more moderating influence — the lake stores summer heat and releases it slowly through the fall, extending the growing season and protecting the vines from early frost.

The Soils: The hillsides around Keuka are dominated by shale, siltstone, and limestone — the remnants of ancient seabeds. These well-drained, mineral-rich soils are ideal for aromatic white varieties, particularly Riesling and Gewürztraminer. The mineral quality in Dr. Frank's whites is a direct expression of these soils.

The Slope: The estate vineyards are planted on steep hillsides facing the lake, which maximizes sun exposure and drainage. Steep slopes are harder to farm — you can't use tractors on the steepest sections — but they produce more concentrated, complex fruit.

The Microclimate: The combination of the lake's moderating influence, the well-drained hillside soils, and the long, cool growing season creates a microclimate that's genuinely unique. It's not Alsace, it's not the Mosel, it's not the Clare Valley — it's Keuka Lake, and the wines taste like it.

The Finger Lakes wine scene has exploded over the past two decades, and there are now dozens of excellent producers worth visiting. Here's how Dr. Frank fits into the broader landscape:

Dr. Konstantin Frank vs. Hermann J. Wiemer: Wiemer is the other legendary name in Finger Lakes Riesling, and the comparison is inevitable. Both make world-class dry Rieslings, but the styles differ. Frank tends toward more fruit-forward, approachable wines; Wiemer leans more austere and mineral. Both are essential.

Dr. Konstantin Frank vs. Ravines Wine Cellars: Ravines, founded by Morten Hallgren (a Frenchman who fell in love with the Finger Lakes), makes some of the most elegant, restrained Rieslings in the region. If Frank is the bold statement, Ravines is the quiet confidence.

Dr. Konstantin Frank vs. Red Newt Cellars: Red Newt is known for its single-vineyard Rieslings and its excellent restaurant. A great stop if you're doing a multi-winery day on Seneca Lake.

Dr. Konstantin Frank vs. Boundary Breaks: Boundary Breaks, on Seneca Lake, has quickly established itself as one of the top Riesling producers in the country. Their No. 239 Riesling is a benchmark wine. Worth the detour.

If you're visiting the winery, here's what I'd prioritize:

Must Buy:

• Dry Riesling (~$20): The best value in the lineup. Buy multiple bottles — it ages beautifully.
• Gewürztraminer (~$22): One of the best examples of the variety made in America. Don't miss it.
• Rkatsiteli (~$18): Unique, historic, and genuinely delicious. A conversation piece that also happens to be a great wine.

Worth the Splurge:

• Reserve Riesling (~$35): A step up in concentration and complexity. Worth it for special occasions.
• Célèbre (~$45): The flagship red. Only available in good vintages, and worth every penny when it is.
• Blanc de Blancs (~$30): Excellent sparkling wine at a fair price.

Skip (or Try Before You Buy):

• The entry-level Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are pleasant but not distinctive. The whites are where Dr. Frank shines.

Hammondsport and the southern Finger Lakes are worth more than a single afternoon. Here's how I'd structure a weekend:

Friday Evening:

• Check into one of the B&Bs in Hammondsport village — the Blushing Rose or the Pleasant Valley Inn are both charming.
• Dinner at Stonecat Café on Seneca Lake, about 45 minutes north. One of the best farm-to-table restaurants in the region, with an excellent local wine list.

Saturday:

• Morning: Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery (open at 9am — get there early before the crowds).
• Lunch: Grab sandwiches from the Hammondsport Deli and eat on the village green.
• Afternoon: Drive the Keuka Lake Wine Trail — stops at Heron Hill, Ravines (Keuka location), and McGregor Vineyard.
• Evening: Dinner at Esperanza Mansion, a historic estate on the lake with a beautiful dining room and solid wine list.

Sunday:

• Morning: Drive north to Seneca Lake for a different terroir experience. Stops at Boundary Breaks, Red Newt, and Lamoreaux Landing.
• Afternoon: Head home via Watkins Glen State Park — the gorge trail is one of the most beautiful short hikes in New York State.

It would be easy to visit Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery and treat it as a pilgrimage — a place you go to pay respects to history. But that would miss the point. The wines aren't good because of what Konstantin Frank did 60 years ago. They're good because the family has continued to push, to experiment, to improve.

The current lineup is the best it's ever been. The Dry Riesling is more precise than it was a decade ago. The Gewürztraminer is more aromatic. The reds are more serious. And the winery continues to experiment with varieties — Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Meunier, Muscat Ottonel — that most American producers wouldn't touch.

What Konstantin Frank proved in 1962 was that the Finger Lakes could make world-class wine. What his family has proven in the decades since is that they intend to keep doing exactly that.

If you care about American wine — really care about it, not just as a consumer but as a student of what's possible — you owe it to yourself to make the drive to Hammondsport. Stand at the edge of Keuka Lake with a glass of Dry Riesling in your hand. Taste the shale in the finish. Think about a 52-year-old Ukrainian immigrant washing dishes in Geneva, New York, knowing he was right.

Then buy a case.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery 9749 Middle Road Hammondsport, NY 14840

Hours: Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–5pm (seasonal variations apply)

Tasting Fees: Classic Tasting $15 / Reserve Tasting $25 (fees waived with purchase)

Website: drfrankwines.com

Best Time to Visit: September through November for harvest season; any time of year for the tasting room experience.

Nearby Wineries: Heron Hill (5 min), Ravines Keuka (15 min), McGregor Vineyard (20 min)

Where to Stay: Hammondsport village B&Bs; Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel (45 min, on Seneca Lake)

Where to Eat: Stonecat Café (Hector, NY), Esperanza Mansion (Bluff Point, NY), Kindred Fare (Geneva, NY)