Finger Lakes Wine Country: A Guide to the Grapes, Wines and Wineries of New York's Premier Wine Region

When wine lovers think about the great wine regions of America, California's Napa Valley and Sonoma County often come to mind first. Oregon's Willamette Valley and Washington's Columbia Valley have earned devoted followings as well.

But tucked among the long, narrow lakes of Upstate New York is another American wine region that deserves a place in that conversation: the Finger Lakes.

With dramatic glacial lakes, rolling vineyards, historic wineries and a cool climate perfectly suited to grapes such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir, Finger Lakes Wine Country has developed into one of America's most distinctive wine destinations.

And while Riesling remains the region's calling card, today's Finger Lakes wine scene is far more diverse than many people realize.

From elegant Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir to Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner and increasingly impressive sparkling wines, the Finger Lakes offers a fascinating opportunity to experience what cool-climate American wine can be.

The Finger Lakes are located in Upstate New York, south of Lake Ontario and roughly between Rochester and Syracuse.

The landscape was shaped by glaciers, which carved the long, narrow lakes and left behind a complicated mixture of soils. Today, vineyards cling to slopes overlooking the water, creating some of the most picturesque winery settings in the eastern United States.

The Finger Lakes American Viticultural Area was established in 1982, with the Cayuga Lake and Seneca Lake AVAs later recognized as sub-appellations.

Although there are numerous lakes throughout the region, much of the wine tourism activity is concentrated around three: Seneca Lake, Cayuga Lake and Keuka Lake.

Each offers its own collection of vineyards, wineries, restaurants, small towns and spectacular views.

The answer begins with the lakes themselves.

The Finger Lakes is a cool-climate wine region, and winters in Upstate New York can be severe. Growing European wine grapes here would be considerably more difficult without the moderating influence of the deep lakes.

Large bodies of water absorb and release heat more slowly than the surrounding land. Vineyards planted on slopes near the lakes therefore benefit from a moderating effect that can help extend the growing season and reduce some temperature extremes.

Seneca Lake is particularly impressive, reaching a depth of approximately 618 feet.

Those steep lakeside slopes provide another advantage: cold air can move downhill toward the water rather than settling around the vines.

The result is a growing environment capable of producing wines with one of the characteristics Finger Lakes winemakers value most: natural acidity.

That acidity gives many of the region's wines their freshness, energy and ability to pair beautifully with food.

If there is one grape that defines Finger Lakes wine, it is Riesling.

The region's cool climate allows Riesling to ripen slowly while retaining acidity, producing wines that can combine citrus and orchard-fruit flavors with floral, mineral and occasionally petrol-like characteristics as they develop.

But one of the pleasures of exploring Finger Lakes Riesling is discovering how many different styles are produced. Visitors may encounter:

• Bone-dry Riesling
• Dry Riesling
• Semi-dry Riesling
• Off-dry Riesling
• Late-harvest Riesling
• Dessert wines
• Sparkling Riesling

The best examples demonstrate that Riesling does not have to be sweet. In fact, some of the most exciting Finger Lakes Rieslings are dry, mineral-driven wines that can be outstanding partners for seafood, poultry, pork and a wide range of Asian cuisines.

Riesling may receive much of the attention, but limiting a Finger Lakes tasting trip to one grape would be a mistake.

Cabernet Franc may be one of the Finger Lakes' most exciting red grapes.

The region's cooler climate can produce Cabernet Franc with bright red fruit, herbs, spice, lively acidity and moderate tannins. Rather than trying to imitate the power of warmer California reds, the best Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc embraces elegance and freshness.

For wine drinkers who enjoy Cabernet Franc from France's Loire Valley, the Finger Lakes can be particularly fascinating.

Chardonnay performs extremely well in cool climates, and Finger Lakes producers are demonstrating just how versatile the grape can be.

Styles range from crisp, unoaked Chardonnay emphasizing apple, citrus and mineral characteristics to barrel-aged examples offering additional texture and complexity. Chardonnay also plays an important role in the region's growing sparkling-wine scene.

Pinot Noir is notoriously difficult to grow, but cool-climate conditions give Finger Lakes winemakers an opportunity to produce elegant examples.

Expect wines that emphasize red cherry, cranberry, earth, spice and acidity rather than sheer power. Pinot Noir is also an important component in traditional-method sparkling wines.

Aromatic Gewürztraminer is another grape well worth seeking out. Its distinctive floral and spice characteristics can make it one of the most immediately recognizable wines in a Finger Lakes tasting room.

Although planted in smaller quantities, Austrian grape Grüner Veltliner has attracted increasing interest among Finger Lakes producers. Its combination of citrus, orchard fruit, herbs, spice and refreshing acidity makes it a natural candidate for the region's cool climate.

One of the most interesting developments in Finger Lakes wine is the growing attention being paid to sparkling wine.

Cool-climate regions naturally produce grapes with higher acidity — exactly what winemakers need when producing high-quality sparkling wines.

Several leading wineries are producing traditional-method sparkling wines from grapes including Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

For visitors who arrive expecting nothing but Riesling, sparkling wine may be one of the biggest surprises of the trip.

With well over 100 wineries spread throughout the broader Finger Lakes region, choosing where to visit can be challenging. The following ten provide a strong introduction to the history, diversity and modern quality of Finger Lakes wine.

It is difficult to tell the story of modern Finger Lakes wine without Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery.

Dr. Konstantin Frank helped demonstrate that European Vitis vinifera varieties could successfully grow in the challenging climate of the Finger Lakes, helping transform the future of New York wine.

The winery sits on the southwestern slopes of Keuka Lake and today remains one of the region's most recognizable producers.

Riesling is an obvious place to begin, but visitors should look beyond it. The winery also works with varieties including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Grüner Veltliner and Rkatsiteli and has a long history of producing traditional-method sparkling wine.

Look for: Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Rkatsiteli and traditional-method sparkling wines.

Why visit: History, beautiful Keuka Lake scenery and one of the broadest introductions to Finger Lakes wine.

Founded in 1979, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard has become one of the benchmark names associated with Finger Lakes Riesling.

Located on the western side of Seneca Lake near Dundee, Wiemer places tremendous emphasis on vineyards and site expression. The estate hand-harvests and hand-sorts its fruit, works individual vineyard lots separately and relies on indigenous yeast fermentation.

For serious Riesling enthusiasts, Wiemer offers an opportunity to explore how different vineyard sites can express themselves within the Finger Lakes.

Look for: Dry Riesling, single-vineyard Riesling and sparkling wine.

Why visit: A deeper exploration of terroir and some of the region's most recognized Rieslings.

Ravines Wine Cellars is an excellent destination for visitors interested in the dry, food-friendly side of Finger Lakes wine.

Its wines frequently emphasize structure, acidity and balance rather than sweetness or excessive ripeness. Riesling is important, but Ravines is also a particularly interesting stop for Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and sparkling wine.

Look for: Dry Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and traditional-method sparkling wine.

Why visit: An excellent demonstration of how naturally Finger Lakes wines can complement food.

Set above the eastern shore of Seneca Lake, Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars combines beautiful vineyard scenery with a remarkably diverse portfolio.

Riesling remains important, but visitors can also explore Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and sparkling wines. For someone making a first trip through Seneca Lake wine country, Lamoreaux Landing provides a particularly useful introduction to the range of styles the region can produce.

Look for: Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and sparkling wine.

Why visit: Excellent views and a diverse selection that goes well beyond Riesling.

Forge Cellars represents another side of the modern Finger Lakes.

The winery focuses heavily on vineyard expression and produces site-specific wines designed to highlight differences among individual locations around Seneca Lake. Riesling plays an important role, but Forge has also gained attention for Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc.

This is a particularly interesting stop for wine enthusiasts who enjoy thinking about terroir and comparing wines from different vineyard sites.

Look for: Dry Riesling, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc.

Why visit: A vineyard-focused approach that encourages visitors to think about the Finger Lakes in terms of individual sites rather than simply one large region.

Located near Lodi on the eastern shore of Seneca Lake, Boundary Breaks Vineyard combines sweeping lake views with a strong emphasis on Riesling.

Its location makes it a particularly attractive stop for travelers exploring the eastern side of Seneca Lake. Tasting several Riesling styles side by side can provide a wonderful lesson in just how versatile the grape can be.

Look for: Riesling in multiple styles.

Why visit: Beautiful Seneca Lake scenery and an opportunity to explore the many personalities of the region's signature grape.

Located in Hector, Red Newt Cellars has long been associated with the development of serious Finger Lakes wine.

Riesling is naturally central to the story, but the winery also provides visitors with an opportunity to explore the broader potential of cool-climate New York wine. Red Newt is an especially appropriate stop for travelers who want to understand how food, wine and the agricultural character of the Finger Lakes fit together.

Look for: Riesling and other cool-climate Finger Lakes bottlings.

Why visit: A longtime Finger Lakes producer with deep connections to the region's wine culture.

Hillick & Hobbs, founded by vintner Paul Hobbs, represents the increasingly ambitious side of Finger Lakes wine.

The estate occupies steep slopes overlooking Seneca Lake and places a major emphasis on Riesling. The project demonstrates something important about the modern Finger Lakes: the region is increasingly attracting attention and investment from winemakers with experience far beyond New York.

Look for: Riesling.

Why visit: Dramatic vineyards, panoramic views and a focused look at what high-end Finger Lakes Riesling can become.

Fox Run Vineyards is another well-established name on Seneca Lake and a popular stop for visitors exploring the western shore.

Its broad portfolio makes Fox Run particularly approachable for groups whose members have different wine preferences. Visitors can move beyond Riesling and explore other whites, reds and sparkling wines while enjoying one of the classic Seneca Lake winery experiences.

Look for: Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and sparkling wines.

Why visit: An accessible introduction to the diversity of Finger Lakes wine.

Located near Hammondsport, Weis Vineyards brings another interesting perspective to Finger Lakes wine.

German-born winemaker Hans Peter Weis has helped build the winery around cool-climate varieties particularly well suited to the region. For travelers spending time around Keuka Lake, Weis makes a natural complement to a visit to Dr. Konstantin Frank and provides another perspective on aromatic white wines and Finger Lakes terroir.

Look for: Riesling, Gewürztraminer and other aromatic varieties.

Why visit: A strong focus on cool-climate winemaking in one of the Finger Lakes' most historic wine areas.

One of the biggest mistakes first-time visitors make is trying to see everything in a single day.

The wineries may look close together on a map, but tastings take time — and the point of visiting wine country is to slow down.

If you want the greatest concentration and diversity of wineries, Seneca Lake is an excellent starting point. The Seneca Lake Wine Trail alone includes dozens of wineries, making it possible to spend several days exploring the lake.

Keuka Lake offers a combination of wine history and beautiful scenery. Hammondsport is an excellent base, and the lake's connection to Dr. Konstantin Frank makes it particularly important for anyone interested in the history of American wine.

Cayuga Lake offers another extensive wine trail along with easy access to Ithaca and many of the natural attractions for which the Finger Lakes are famous. It can be a particularly appealing option for travelers who want to combine winery visits with restaurants, waterfalls, hiking and outdoor activities.

One reason the Finger Lakes works so well as a wine destination is that you do not need to spend every waking hour in tasting rooms.

The landscape itself is worth the trip.

Visitors can combine winery stops with waterfalls, hiking trails, lake cruises, farm markets, restaurants and charming communities such as Geneva, Hammondsport, Penn Yan, Watkins Glen and Ithaca.

Watkins Glen State Park is one of the region's best-known natural attractions, while the towns surrounding the lakes offer everything from casual cafés to ambitious farm-to-table dining.

That combination makes the Finger Lakes especially attractive for couples and groups in which not everyone is a dedicated wine enthusiast.

Give yourself time. Three or four wineries in a day can provide a far more enjoyable experience than racing through seven or eight.

Choose one section of one lake and explore it properly.

Make reservations where required or recommended, particularly during weekends and the busy fall harvest season.

And most importantly, taste beyond the wines you already know.

If you love Riesling, try Cabernet Franc. If you normally drink red wine, taste some traditional-method sparkling wine. If you believe Riesling is always sweet, order a dry one.

A trip to the Finger Lakes is at its best when it challenges assumptions.

The Finger Lakes tells an important story about how American wine continues to evolve.

For decades, conversations about serious American wine were dominated by California. Today, outstanding wines are being produced across the country, from Oregon and Washington to Virginia, Michigan, Texas, New York and beyond.

The Finger Lakes is one of the clearest examples of why American wine should be viewed through a much wider lens.

This isn't Napa Valley — and it shouldn't try to be.

The Finger Lakes has its own climate, its own grapes, its own history and its own identity. Its greatest wines aren't defined by enormous ripeness, high alcohol or sheer power. Instead, they frequently succeed through acidity, aromatics, balance, freshness and their ability to express the cool climate in which they were grown.

And that may be exactly what makes the region so exciting.

If you haven't explored Finger Lakes wine recently, it may be time to take another look.

Start with Riesling, certainly. It remains one of America's most important expressions of the grape.

But don't stop there.

Taste the Cabernet Franc. Explore the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Try Gewürztraminer and Grüner Veltliner. Seek out traditional-method sparkling wines. Compare vineyards on opposite sides of the same lake.

Most importantly, visit the wineries and talk to the people growing the grapes and making the wines.

Because the real story of the Finger Lakes isn't simply that New York can produce good wine.

It's that the Finger Lakes has developed a recognizable wine identity of its own — and it is helping expand our understanding of what American wine can be.

Related reading: The Northeast Wine Frontier · New York Wine Beyond the AVAs · What Is Terroir? · Hybrid American Wine Grapes · How to Taste Wine